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Tuesday, April 29, 2008

Name that Hen

Hey everyone - I need your help! This is my 7 week old pullet(young female chicken) that I still haven't figured out a name for. We have named our other babies but still couldn't come up with any fitting for her. Which is bad because I have to say things like, "Come here, you!" instead of something cute so I'm not bonding with her as much as the others. So I thought I could turn to you guys for help!

This little lady is a Black Langshan and will be quite tall for a chicken - like to your knees! Langshans are a rare heirloom breed originally from China that lay dark brown eggs. They have feathers around their feet and are said to be calm and self-possessed. She will eventually look something like this:
Her breed has a pretty classic look and maybe that's why it's been hard for me to choose a name. So tell me your name idea(s) and why you think it fits my little hen. I'm open to all suggestions whether it has to do with what she looks like or just because it's a cute name for a chicken! After a week I'll look at all of the suggestions and pick my favorite. Now get naming!

~Megan

Saturday, April 26, 2008

Square-foot gardening

It’s hip to be square.

I recently read about an intriguing concept calledsquare-foot gardening. Its founder, Mel Bartholomew, believes that growing vegetables in a square-foot grid produces a large harvest for the least amount of work.

The system’s mainstay is boxed garden beds that are 4x 4 feet, a size that allows you to tend your plants from all sides without ever having to step inside the box. Garden boxes can be longer, but not wider than, four feet.

To maximize efficiency, Bartholomew promotes precise placing of individual crops within each square. Large crops, like broccoli, go one plant per square. Others may be spaced four, nine or 16 per square depending on size. This, and other information about the system, can be found at www.squarefootgardening.com .

The method employs using a soil mixture of equal parts peat moss, vermiculite and blended compost. Bartholomew says most crops require only six inches of soil, allowing his method to be adapted to containers -- anywhere you want them.

Many of square-foot gardening’s ideals – such as not wasting space with rows; not trampling your soil; and growing up, not out – make a lot of sense to me. Not having done a square-foot garden before, I cannot endorse the system, but am excited to give it a go. I’d love to hear from any of you that have experience with this.

I admit that the thought of using Bartholomew’s recommended soil mixture in my entire garden makes my wallet clench, as large amounts of peat moss and vermiculite can be pricey. I can’t justify the cost of changing out my already-established garden bed just for the sake of experimentation. Plus, I’d already prepared my plot before learning about this.

I do want to try the square-foot crop placement, however, so I made a grid in my 4 x 8 foot bed.
Bartholomew recommends using wood or vinyl slats (such as from leftover blinds) for the grid. I simply put nails in my wooden planter box to anchor lines of yarn.

My 4 x 8 bed gives 32 squares for different crops. I can’t wait to see the patchwork quilt my veggies will create.

I acknowledge that soil is a critical factor to a garden’s success. I feel OK about the soil I’ve prepared in my planter box. But so that I can more fully embrace the square-foot gardening method and evaluate how well it works, I also will make a smaller box and fill it with Bartholomew’s recommended mix.

Bartholomew’s website is mainly an introduction to the subject of square-foot gardening; his book provides a lot more information. I also found a video at my library.

~Jennifer

Friday, April 25, 2008

Happy Arbor Day


It all started with one man, and his love for trees. Arbor Day dates back to April 10, 1872 and can be attributed to Julius Morton, he and his wife moved to Nebraska, but their 'roots' were in Michigan. They noticed the lack of trees in Nebraska and observed it to be "The Great American Desert". Both were nature lovers and began to immediately plant trees and orchards, they encouraged their friends and neighbors to do the same. Not only do trees make the land more beautiful, but they are and were useful as well. They act as a windbreak, keep soil in place, supply fuel for burning, can be used for building materials, and provide shade.

Morton was a journalist and became the editor of Nebraska's first newspaper making him influential within the community. He inspired many readers to plant trees as well as numerous civic organizations. His popularity rose and later became Secretary of the Nebraska Territories. During this time he purposed Nebraska's first Arbor Day, a day set aside dedicated to planting trees. Prizes were offered to counties and individuals for planting the largest number of trees. It is reported that over one million trees were planted on that very first Arbor Day back in April 1872. The idea has spread, and 50 states and many countries are now celebrating Arbor Day.

It is amazing the difference that just one person can make in this world.

Wednesday, April 23, 2008

Don't Forget Arbor Day


Arbor day? My second grade son recently came home with a list of 100 questions to answer. Boy, I don't think I could be on the show "Are You Smarter Than a 5th Grader" because I couldn't even answer some of the 2nd grade questions. Question number 59, What is Arbor Day? Thank goodness for the internet, with a quick search on google I found out that it is a day designated for planting trees. Well, don't I feel dumb, this is a holiday I should know about. So, from this day forward we will always be celebrating Arbor Day, and we hope that you will too.

National Arbor Day is April 25th. Some states observe Arbor Day on different dates according to their best tree-planting times. Click here to find out when your state arbor day is.

We will be planting a Walnut tree and a Hybrid Poplar.

What are you doing to celebrate Arbor Day?

~marisa

Tuesday, April 22, 2008

Reader's Question~Whiskey Barrel Garden

Dear Backyardfarming,
I came across your blog on another blog and had a question about gardening. I noticed you had planted certain veggies in whiskey barrels? We are also renting and was wondering about the success of it. I am in CA and so we are putting in our garden this weekend, was wondering about plants (like tomato) you can put in one whisky barrel? Just curious if you could help me with this.
Thanks, Sow Seeker

Dear Sow Seeker,

The whiskey barrel garden is super simple and super successful.

1. How to fill the whiskey barrel (wb):

You will need to drill some holes in the bottom for proper drainage. Then you will want to add some rock or hummus. This helps promote drainage as well as consume space so you don't spend your whole paycheck on DIRT! If you don't want to go organic and just want to go easy you can buy a few bags of miracle grow garden soil. This year we went organic and used a mixture of manure, organic garden soil and compost. Fill your wb full because as you water your plants throughout the season the soil will settle.

2. What to plant:

We have had great success with tomatoes and green beans. But i don't see any reason why you couldn't grow cucumbers, squash, or any number of veggies!

3. Spacing:

In general we have put one vigorous tomato plant, with some marigolds and a few stalks of basil or cilantro in one wb. I think you could put two cherry tomato plants in one wb. Cherry tomatoes are fun because you get lots of fruit to harvest. Plus you can usually get them before the squirrels or birds. If you are planting from seeds, make sure to read the info packet because it will tell you important spacing and growth information.

4. In general:

I think keeping it watered and using good soil with proper drainage is the key. You should have great success!

~Sarah

Saturday, April 19, 2008

Project: Terrarium Gardens

This time of year inspires all of us to want to get our hands in the dirt and get something growing. You can't even go to the grocery store anymore without passing pots, soil, & plants for sale. But for those who have little time, a tiny yard, or no yard at all - a terrarium might be the perfect fit. The kids love them and they look totally chic on your coffee table. Terrariums require little care but bring the green indoors and add a little sunshine to any space. I love looking at my terrariums imagining they are little worlds of happiness and wonder. And adding a pretty rock or garden troll increases their charm.

1. For starters you'll need a container. I had so much fun looking through some of the glass containers I had already and perusing the local thrift store for more. The containers can be tiny or large - just choose something that fits your style and your space. Mason jars, fish bowls, & potpourri containers work perfectly.2. Next you 'll need some plants. Depending on the container you choose - ground covers, succulents, and many types of moss will work and each brings a different feeling to your little world. But remember that all of the plants you put in must require the same conditions for moisture and light since they will all be sharing a small space. 3. It's time to plant! We found this great video from eHow that leads you step by step through the process of planting. Check it out:





I started with a dry climate since the succulents were so darn pretty but those instructions will work for any plant. Once I finished that I went on to make three others. They are all pictured below except my favorite which is the first image in this post. Happy planting!















~Megan

Thursday, April 17, 2008

Plotting your plot


The English language is – dare I say it? – ripe with gardening expressions. There’s good reason that the phrases “laying the groundwork” and “starting from the ground up” ring true. They both emphasize the need for preparation and order.

So it is with growing vegetables. A little planning about garden placement will help make the most of your efforts. This post mainly addresses forming a garden plot in your yard, but the principles also can be helpful to container gardening.

Cameron already gave us great information about soil, including the importance of using lots of organic matter. But where to put that soil? Here now are some plot points about that all-important matter of location, location, location.


SELECTING A SPOT

• Sunlight is the most critical factor to consider when staking out a garden site. Vegetables require a MINIMUM of six hours of full sun a day to grow. You can compensate for poor soil by amending it, you can deliver water to make up for little rainfall, you can even protect from harsh weather. Unless you’re a magician, though, there’s no way you can substitute
for the sun’s power.

Choose, then, the sunniest part of your yard for your garden site. Not sure where this is? Since the summer sun shines high in the south, a good spot is anywhere with good southern exposure (faces south). This may be the north end of your yard or another spot unblocked by trees or other structures. (You want large, shadow-casting objects to be north of your garden area). Gauge the light before you go to the trouble of digging.

Light meters are available at garden stores; you leave them in the ground for a day, and they’ll tell you the number of sunlight hours. Another (no-cost) tactic is through simple observation. If you have a site in mind, note what time of day you first see sun there. Then check every hour throughout the day. Take into account that any trees currently not in leaf will cast more shade by summer. Also keep in mind that the sun’s orientation will change slightly with the
seasons (more to the south, as mentioned).

Morning sun is preferable to the intense, scorching heat of afternoon light.

•You don’t need to have your entire garden in one rectangle. Place pockets throughout your yard where the plants’ needs are best met. Group water-guzzling watermelons in one spot, for instance, and less thirsty herbs in another. Also, use any structures in your yard to your advantage. My main garden bed is against the north fence in my yard, against which we’ve placed our bean trellis. I have a stair railing in another part of my yard. That’s where I’ve planted my peas, so they can climb it.

• Another consideration to garden placement is water accessibility. Will hoses or sprinklers reach? Will you need to water by hand? This applies, too, to where you set up your containers.

• Lastly, abandon the notion that a vegetable garden needs to be placed on the fringes of your yard, out of sight. On the contrary, vegetable gardens can be beautiful. Plus you’re much more likely to tend a garden that you see and pass by all the time.

DIGGING IN

•With a good site selected, there are several ways to form your plot. One is to dig up any grass,
vegetation, rocks, etc., and dig in good soil amendments. Another is to build raised beds out of
lumber. They can be open-bottomed to sit on the existing soil or lined with a barrier like plastic. The latter option allows you to start a garden bed without the need to tear up any ground beneath – simply set up on top. Raised beds are great for carving out level spots on a slope, too.

Whichever method, make sure soil is loosened to a depth of about 12 inches or deeper.

• When it comes to sizing your plot, think INSIDE the box. We’re so ingrained with the image of rows upon rows in a vast rectangle, that it’s hard to think of a vegetable garden as anything but. Yet why go to the trouble of loosening and aerating your soil only to compact it as soon as you tread on a row? This is counter-productive and also wastes space and water.

Instead, consider forming your garden in multiple pieces or beds only as wide as your arm can reach in. This allows you to tend and harvest your garden without having to step on (and compromise) its life-sustaining soil.

OTHER TIPS

• Growing up, instead of out, is a great way to garden. Beans and peas aren’t the only climbers. Cucumbers, squash, melons and pumpkins can be trained upward, leaving more ground space. I’ve even heard of pole beans being trained up corn stalks.

• Light also influences the placement of your crops within the plot or pot. Plant tall ones, such as corn or pole beans on the north end so they won’t block the sun to other plants.

~Jennifer